Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
